Archive for June, 2008

The Quest for Beer

Okay, making my own beer might sound a little obsessive. But I guess that I am obsessed with DIY food – I think it’s a great thing to be able to know how to do, and I enjoy it. And what hobby is better than one where you get to consume the output?

 

I have a catalog called The Northern Brewer, and it’s a wish book for people who want to brew their own beer and wine. They sell starter kits, all manner of supplies (siphons, bottles, brew kettles, taps – you name it), beer or wine kits as well as the truly DIY option of raw ingredients (hops, yeast, grape concentrates – all that jazz). It’s lovely to browse through.

 

I’ve read a couple of things that have gotten me interested in brewing my own beer, the first of which is a zine put out awhile ago called Brew Not Bombs by a Baltimore, MD group of the same name. It’s filled with some great info to pique your interest – a basic guide to getting started with brewing, history of beer, labels created by DIYers, beer recipes, some interesting essays, etc. I also have the Book The Homebrewer’s Companion by Charlie Papazian – and it is extremely comprehensive.

 

When I first brought up the idea of homebrewing to the husband, he immediately dismissed it as too expensive and complicated. So I went on an education campaign to convince him otherwise. You can get started with basic brewing equipment and the necessary ingredients for under $100. Add a few bells and whistles, like a glass carboy (basically a 6 gallon jug) instead of a plastic bucket and you’re still only at $125. And that’s buying the pre-fab kits and bottles from a supplier. Scrounging together your food-grade bucket, plastic tubing for the siphon and bottles yourself will cut some serious cash off the end price. This setup will allow you to brew five gallons of beer, which fill up about 48 bottles (that’s eight six-packs). The first brew will be your most expensive, since you have to offset the initial investment in the equipment. So your first beer will cost you about $2.60 per bottle. Subsequent brews, where you only need to purchase the ingredients (which run about $25 in kit form) will cost you only about fifty cents per bottle! That’s $3.00 per six pack, which is comparable to the cheap/mass market beer you can buy at the store, and about half the price of good quality/craft brews. So really, beermaking at home shouldn’t break the bank. And I really recommend recycling bottles for your brewing – it’s perfectly safe (when you sanitize them and remove the labels), it’s thrifty (two uses out of the beer you purchased!), and it’s better for the environment.

 

And learning how to make a good, basic beer doesn’t sound that complicated. In its simplest form, this is what you do – boil malt extract with some hops. After an hour or so, add some more hops to what is now called the wort (which is apparently pronounced “wert”). In the last five minutes of boiling the wort, add some more hops. Take it off the heat and put it in an ice bath to bring the temperature down. Add a few gallons of water to your carboy then add the wort. Then top off the carboy with water, leaving some headroom. When the wort in the carboy has come down to room temperature, add some yeast and fit the carboy with a stopper and airlock. Let it sit for a few weeks, then bottle. Let the bottles sit for another 2-4 weeks and then it’s ready to drink. Yes, there are a few intricacies to the process, such as timing, amounts of ingredients, prepping your supplies and whatnot, but as you can see, it’s not incomprehensible. With a good recipe to follow, I think anyone (including myself) can do it.

 

So, husband said that after we’re settled into our new apartment, let’s brew some beer! We glanced over the catalog together, and settled on two beers that are in the running as our first brew- Cream Ale or Extra Pale Ale. The Northern Brewer describes the Cream Ale as “An ale version of the light, fizzy American lager style… medium-bodied and smooth, gold in color and low in bitterness”. Extra Pale Ale is one of their most popular kits, and described as “clean, dry and very hoppy”. I’m more inclined toward the Extra Pale, and husband is more inclined toward the Cream. I guess we’ll have to rock scissors paper for it.

 

If all goes decently with our first brew (and even if it doesn’t – try, try again) there are many more beers that I’d like to try making – Nut Brown Ale, Breakfast Stout, American Wheat Beer, Bourbon Barrel Porter, Oktoberfest, and someday when I’m decently experienced – Oatmeal Stout, which instead of malt extract uses the real deal – grain. It’s takes 6-8 weeks to do a beer from start to finish, so I hope to have our first one done by the middle of September, and the second at the end of November. So we’ll probably try the Nut Brown Ale or Breakfast Stout for our winter brew. And who knows? If it turns out inherently drinkable, maybe you’ll find yourself with some home brew for a Christmas present this year. J

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Welcome Back Spring

After eagerly anticipating it for months, the Saturday finally arrived – the very first Evanston farmer’s market of the year. We woke up early (for a Saturday) to a beautiful day. We got to the market around nine, and it was packed. All of last year’s familiar faces had shown up, as well as some new ones. And of course, we came home with some great loot – dandelion greens, green onions, spinach, a few pounds of Rose Finn fingerling potatoes, fresh garlic, 2 heads of baby Rouge D’Hiver lettuce, and a handful of fresh morel mushrooms. There was so much more to be had though – asparagus, button mushrooms, baby butterhead lettuce, rhubarb, baby leeks, new potatoes (3-4 different varieties), fresh herbs, early Asian greens (I forget the varietal names – a few different ones), plants (vegetables and flowers), last season’s preserves and honey, frozen beef and bison, last season’s cider, and probably quite a few things I’m just forgetting about. It was fantastic to walk around and fill up our bags.

 

So that Saturday night for dinner, I wanted to make something special. I chose roasted rack of lamb, with the Rose Finn potatoes roasted with rosemary, thyme and a little olive oil. The lamb I roasted in the oven with a mirepoix (onions, carrots and celery) and finished with a persillade, which is basically bread crumbs, garlic (I used roasted), parsley and butter mashed into a paste. You spread this paste over the lamb and broil it until it’s just browned and crispy. It’s quite tasty with the lamb. I also made a sauce by adding some beef stock to the mirepoix and simmering it, then straining it and thickening it slightly with a beurre manie (pop quiz – regular readers should know this one! It’s a one-to-one ratio of butter to flour). The lamb and potatoes were fantastic, and we shared of bottle of Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon (my favorite American table wine- it’s from Oregon).

 

That Sunday morning for brunch also had us partaking of more fresh goodness. I made roasted breakfast potatoes with the remaining Rose Finns – just a little shallot, paprika and salt and pepper. And we added some green onion to our scrambled eggs. A few slices of bacon each and it was a brunch fit for royalty. After months removed from the freshness of the earth, those green onions tasted amazing! They tasted green, but with that characteristic onion bite. Fantastic.

 

I’ll likely make Italian Wedding Soup with the spinach, and we’re looking forward to a few good salads with the greens and onions. And I have to think of something special for the morels – they were $48.00 a pound! Reason enough why we only bought a handful (which came in at $8.00), but I don’t begrudge these foragers the price – morels can’t be cultivated, and it takes a lot of effort and time to scavenge a whole pound of them out in the wild. We’re just lucky to get them – we’re at the tail end of the season here in Illinois. Instead of adding them to a dish (like coq au vin) I’d like to feature them – we used to eat them breaded and fried when I was a kid, and that’s what I’ll likely do with them. That would be a nice accompaniment to a roasted chicken. But I’m still open to ideas, and I’ve got cookbooks aplenty to supply them, so I may come up with something different in the next day or two (we’re having the morels come hell or high water for Tuesday night dinner – $48.00 a pound will not be going bad in the back of refrigerator!).

 

So, the season of green is upon us once more. I can’t wait to see the changes at the market as the season advances – the addition of new produce, both old standbys and this year’s experiments as well as how the weather and the people change. Spring and summer are always an exciting time.

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Recent Library Additions

Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life by Barbara Kingsolver

 

The Making of a Chef: Mastering Heat at the Culinary Institute of America by Michael Ruhlman

 

Julie & Julia: 365 Days, 524 Recipes, 1 Tiny Apartment Kitchen by Julie Powell

 

Handy Farm Devices & How to Make Them by Rolfe Cobleigh

 

The Book of the Campfire Girls

 

The Food of France by Waverly Root

 

Travels with Barley: The Quest for the Perfect Beer Joint by Ken Wells

 

The Scavenger’s Guide to Haute Cuisine by Steven Rinella

 

The Professional Chef (the main textbook of the Culinary Institute of America)

 

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Food for the Coming Year

Interestingly enough, May is the month of figuring out what we’re going to be eating over the next year. In all honestly, that’s quite late. I should’ve had it figured out in January, in time to place seed orders. But seeing that we don’t grow much beyond herbs and salad greens in our apartment, waiting until May is fine. That’s when the farmer’s markets open for the season, and we start thinking about making the bountiful goodness of the summer to come last until, well, the next summer. And it goes beyond vegetables. This year, I’m also thinking meats.

 

We’re moving this summer, and our must-have apartment wish list includes a few things that will make conscious eating a bit easier (at least in my mind). Our wish list includes space equal or greater to what we have now, immediate outdoor access (be it balcony, patio, yard, what-have-you), eat-in kitchen (with a gas stove!) or separate dining room, and big windows. Nice little extras would be a second bedroom, hardwood floors, claw-foot tub and a brick accent wall. But those last things are the icing on the cake, and really don’t have much to do with making conscious eating easier. But the former ones do. The equal or greater space requirement relates to the need to purchase a small chest freezer (we still haven’t gotten one due to current space constraints), and have pantry storage for canned goods. Any little spot of the outdoors I’m going to inundate with edibles – my dreams (even on a little 5×3 foot balcony) include a few tomato plants, a columnar apple tree, a half barrel of dwarf blueberries (the husband loves blueberries), strawberries in hanging baskets, lettuces in window boxes and anything else I can manage to fit in. Kitchen space (with the gas stove!) so I can put up copious amounts of produce this summer without feeling like I’m working in a hall closet, which is basically what cooking in our current (electric-stove-outfitted) kitchen is like. And don’t even get me started on the pitfalls of an electric stove. Big windows – filled with edible plants of course. I can see my strawberry pot of herbs multiplying like there’s no tomorrow…

 

So what’s on this year’s list for food preservation? It’s alarmingly ambitious, as always.

 

5 pints applesauce

5 pounds beef jerky

5 pounds bison jerky

10 quarts canned quartered tomatoes

10 quarts canned roasted quartered tomatoes

20 pints canned tomato paste

5 pounds dehydrated mushrooms (mostly button and morel)

5 quarts frozen blueberries

5 quarts frozen cherries

24 ears frozen corn on the cob

20 quarts of frozen edamame (we eat this like chips in our household)

5 quarts of frozen strawberries

10 pints frozen sweet peppers

2 quarts frozen persimmon puree

5 quarts frozen pumpkin puree

5 pints canned roasted garlic

5 pints rosemary garlic olive oil

 

The only thing that seems truly daunting to me is the tomato paste. The frozen stuff is easy – wash, blanch, toss in bags and freeze. The mushrooms and jerkies will be easy, just stick in the dehydrator. The roasted garlic and olive oil will be easy too. Even the applesauce and canned tomatoes will be simple. But I know that it takes about 35 pounds of tomatoes to make 10 quarts. So for the canned tomatoes, I’m looking at 70 pounds alone. That will be two weekends worth of work for me. And I know that it’s going to take a lot more tomatoes to cook down into 20 pints of paste. A lot more. So maybe I won’t quite get there on that one… but I’ll try. We eat a lot of Bolognese in this house, and you can’t have my Bolognese without tomato paste. So I will definitely try.

 

But I also mentioned meat. While I’m certainly not producing any of it myself (from scratch, in the barnyard) I hope to purchase it directly from the people who do.

 

2 20 pound turkeys (the Thanksgiving and Christmas birds)

1 side of pork (including the Thanksgiving ham, sausages and mostly ground)

¼ side of beef (in a few steaks, stew meat and mostly ground)

A bit of lamb – a crown roast (for Christmas), a few steaks and some stew meat

8 chickens

 

I think I might need a bigger freezer than what I first planned on… but ambition is a great thing. If I can’t achieve it all, that’s fine. But I will certainly try. It’s about doing a little bit when you can, because as everyone knows, the little stuff adds up. And that’s an approach I can live with.

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